UCA multiple failures

So, went to pull out of the driveway after minor brake work and what happens? Bang! Passenger UCA completely fractured on both points. It appears one point was already shot as there's some rust on the fracture. The other side was a clean break today.

Looking at the driver's side the same: one side fractured, other still holding. This seems very uncommon, no? Can it be a manufacturer's defect? The truck only has 64K miles on it, I got it with 30K.

All I can say is how lucky I am that it didn't happen yesterday, doing 80 on I95 for 3 hours!

Anyways, I purchased this truck some years ago with the lift already done by the previous owner. Problem is I never found out what brand the kit is. I believe it's a Toytec 3-inch with Bilsteins but have no idea what the UCA's are.

Any advice is appreciated.

 

Dang.

 

Glad ur ok. Swap those out asap

 

Your 4runner is rusty. Swap out those uca and struts. And look over everything else. Toytecs/bilsteins are known to rust.

 

I hope the shop can identify what make they are.

If anyone here has an idea please let me know.

 

Why does everything look all slimy/wet?

 

PB Blaster Shield, similar to Fluid Film.

 

UCAs are SPC P/N 25480 "version 1". Looks like they were severely neglected or installed with no grease in the polyurethane bushings to begin with.



SPC changed the design to a stronger one-piece forged arm around 2018, but introduced swivel joints in lieu of the polyurethane bushings. The swivel joints would've never made it 30k.

 

WOW!

I don't live in a rust- prone area. Is that a typical amount of rust for 60,000miles in your area?

 

^Time is more critical than mileage. The rust is typical after 11 winters if not rustproofed.

 

I'm in Boston, bought the truck from Vermont. Both are heavy salt states, so it's a pain keeping up.

I've been spraying the underside with PB Blaster, which is lanolin. I also have rust in the inner rocker panels.

I need to soda blast the entire underside, get to the metal and see what rust is present. Then I can treat it correctly for the long term.

 

So, I should stick with SPC. Is the new version a direct swap into my setup?

Never make it to 30K sounds a bit of a pain to deal with!

 

Replace those and Surface Shield is your friend going forward, buy a whole damn bucket online.
Holy Moly, what a rust

 

This thing stays longer than fluid film

 

I can't imagine what the rest of the underside looks like.

I'd check that before even replacing anything. Might be time the chuck that thing.

 

Yes, that's what I use.

The frame is really good, no issues. I just need to remove any surface rust and crap and treat the whole thing again. Blasting is the only way.

 

Usually its the other way around.

Plenty people post their frame going south first. I don't think anyone has posted suspension that beat up yet.

 

Given the age of your 4Runner, your lower control arm cam bolts are probably seized, which means you'll need adjustable UCAs to maintain alignment. However, I would avoid SPC because their "Xaxis" inner swivel joints are known to wear out very quickly (like under two years). I suggest spending the extra $80 and going with this: https://www.extremeterrain.com/free...-front-uca-2-to-4-inch-lift-fo-t702fu-bt.html

 

Assuming LCA cam bolts are good, how about this one:

https://www.extremeterrain.com/free...trol-arms-for-2-to-4-inch-lift-fo-t702fu.html


Rubber bushings, greasable ball joints, gusseted, lifetime warranty.

Here's a writeup on them:

 

^Have you pulled the cam bolts apart during your ownership and coated them in grease or anti-seize? If not, odds are 100% the cam bolts are seized in the LCAs.

 

At first I panicked reading this thread. Then I realized that the UCA’s weren’t OEM.

Disregard

 

You can get the Nhoil in spray cans. Probably your best bet to try to seal and protect.

 

Of course, that's the plan. Again, I use the PB stuff, better reviewed on Youtube and also comes in spray cans, although I use a spray gun. I started with a gallon three years ago and still have one season left to go.

Looks like I may go with the JBA standard.

 

I used Freedom Off road UCAs. They are really cheap, really built and had excellent reviews from people using them for several years. Very well built but rust will destroy anything eventually. I know if you live in a cold weather environment, washing underneath every week or so isn't always feasible. I get a cheap electric pressure washer and plug it into hot water heater or faucet just to keep it cleaned off. I used to cover with mud underneath and let any salt ride on it. I'm in the south and insane about keeping a little rust off.

 

They have upper and lower kit at Extreme Terrain for $600 & free shipping. Comes with new cams for lower. I like polyurethane bushings, but they can squeak on control arms. I have learned that what I want and really need are two different things. Marketing sells you the idea of most expensive and best for something you probably will not do much. I'm honest with myself about my driving and I don't rock crawl extreme. I do 99% of my driving on the highway and a lot is wasted money.

 

The Freedom KDSS kit is $665 but out of stock. Also, the JBA has greasable bushings, which pushes me in that direction.

 

I've never had bushings fail, but they have greasable ball joints. If bushings wear out I will install polyurethane. I went with the amount and quality of the reviews for what I will be doing and they were cheap.

 

You can probably buy separately for a little more. That's what I am going to do. I didn't see kit at the time and I referred some people there and they are still out of stock I guess. Does KDSS use different control arms?

 

I'm going to say that you're probably getting what you pay for here. Buy quality parts for a quality vehicle. I've seen too many good Ebay stores products that look great and are cheap but the quality just isn't there.

 

I need a tetanus shot just looking at this! OP do not buy SPC, everything is a pain in the ass with them. Buy JBA UCAs