How many wish they had gone w/o KDSS?

I bought a new 23 ORP with KDSS last September. I had done some research and people generaly seemed happy with it. I also figured it would have a higher ressale value. Lastly I wanted no moonroof in Ice Cap, and in a couple of hundred mile radius it was the only one. Anyways, now I kinda wish it did not have the KDSS, it is an extra compoment that can fail and might get in the way of future mods.

 

No regerts (<-- yep, on porpoise)(<-- the jokes keep rolling)

I didn't buy it for better resale, I got it because I drove one with and one without and there was a noticeable difference. Also knew mods were years down the road and wouldn't be anything crazy. My opinion only, but if you are lifting higher than KDSS can handle then maybe it wasn't the best platform to start with. There is an argument for not qualifying for LT but again, IFS isn't known for flexing.

As far as failures or it being a weak point, the only threads I've read dealing with that have been through neglect. Pull the KDSS skid to wash off salt after winters and dirt/mud/gravel from offroading and it will be fine. I've only heard of actuator/electrical issues due to corrosion under that skid

 

I love mine. Actually I wish I didn’t have the moonroof because then I could have gone for the cargo tray.

 

I had the front kdss piston start leaking at 31k miles. Luckily caught it 2 months before the bumper to bumper expired or it would have been a $5k fix.

 

Being since it’s brand new, there’s no better time to get everything rust proofed. For those in the rust belt, that seems to lead to worst case situations. Proper application of a good wet-film rust control product like wool wax seems to be the most effective and safest way to keep those kdss lines, accumulators/manifolds etc from rusting away. You could even try some of the waxy set-up products that are coming out now (they probably don’t end up looking as dirty if you ever take it through mud).

I’ve seen some pics of failures/leaks of the rams, but I would guess that would be way more repairable than having stuff rot away.

If you take active steps to control corrosion early, chances are it will last as long as everything else. The KDSS system does give you some very real advantages both on-road and off road that a regular 4runner doesn’t have.

I say enjoy it! But don’t neglect cleaning and rustproofing if you live in a salty area, or if you take your 4runners through mud or water.

 

KDSS is a reliable, well designed system and it's one of the favorite options my 21 TRD ORP. I didn't even know it had it until after I brought the truck home. I knew that the truck cornered exceptionally well but did not realize it was KDSS.

Much better system than XREAS

 

That sucks, I'm sorry to hear that. I think that's the first one I've heard that wasn't a corrosion failure. I have seen as much as 7-10k to fix and not all dealers are familiar with the system

 

I can’t even imagine the concept of cornering with my 4runner lol. But that’s probably because I don’t have KDSS.

I’m ok with that though…there’s nothing wrong with having an old school 4x4 that corners like floppy drunk pig. I exaggerate a little. It feels fine in normal driving, the floppy pig comes out once you poke it a bit too much.

 

I’m not doubting the estimates people have gotten for repair, but sometimes I have to wonder if those are “go away, we’re busy” quotes. That seems super excessive for any one thing on a vehicle outside of a transmission replacement.

If that’s really the going price to replace one part of the KDSS system, I’d be really tempted to buy access to the factory repair procedure and try it myself. Does anyone here know why it might be that expensive?

At least the OP has the advantage of having warranty. Keep it clean and protected early and make sure you do a careful inspection before the warranty expires.

 

Have no idea why it's so expensive. Especially when it's only 1500-2500 add-on? I think mine was only about 1k more than non-KDSS because there were so many on lots on 2019.

 

If kdss parts didn’t cost so much and labor to fix wasn’t so high, I don’t think it would be a big deal as it is now. But unfortunately that’s not the case.

 

I researched this before we bought our 2024 and decided against KDSS. I did not even want to test drive one - I do not know what I missed. Our truck still handles much better than our 2001 Infiniti QX4.

I wasn't so much concerned about the extra $1750, but more about the repair cost down the line. We live in a state with no salt (Colorado, not the northeast).

I do think if you have a 5th gen you're overall happy with, it's probably not sweating. I would probably use fluid film on all the KDSS components and regularly clean the under body if we ended up with with one (I'm most likely going to do this anyway).

 

This. The front piston alone is almost $2k depending on where you get it from. Then there is the special oil the system is charged with. There is also the special system pressurizing tool that the majority of dealers do not have on hand. In my case I had to wait a month and a half for my dealer to get the tool as it travels around from dealer to dealer.

 

I’ve seen forums where people bought a hydraulic pump to mimic the SST pump tool, but if parts cost so much I’m not sure it’s worth fixing if not warrantied. 2k just for the front piston is just nuts. Probably better converting to regular sway bars at that point, looks like fronts needs threads tapped or riv nuts and rears need some fabricating work. Does anyone know if the kdss can be deactivated by tech stream if someone were to remove the system so the kdss light on the dash don’t stay on?

 

I ordered my 22 TRD ORP without KDSS because I don’t run swaybars.

 

Lots of great thoughts here! I guess when if ever it breaks I'll just disable it. I might even do it as a fun oroject after the warranty runs out! And it took me 6 months to relaize, but I emptied two cans of FF on the frame a couple of weeks ago, including behind the KDSS skid
If I could wind back time, I'd get a non KDSS. Still love my truck a lot tho, would not even trade for a brand nee one.

 

Ouch! Still cost the warranty 5k$?

 

Were you still able to drive during that period?

 

That’s my plan if it breaks, rip it out. Until that time comes I’m not going to worry so much about it. I just got into 4Runners and did not know what kdss was, I thought kdss was some kind of special shocks when I read kinetic dynamic suspension system on the sticker. sales guy didn’t know what it was lol. It is what it is, I wouldn’t sell or trade mine either, happy with what I got. End of the day it’s still a 4Runner regardless of kdss or not.

 

Toyota paid for it because it was warranty but with the labor and parts involved it was almost $5k.

Yes still able to drive, no dummy lights or anything. If I hadn't swapped my winter wheels on and noticed the front piston weeping I would have never known.

 

that's my logic of having it. As long as it works, great. If it stops working and I don't feel like putting everything back, well, out comes all the parts and retrofit with SR5 parts. No biggie.

 

Going off topic but Before I lifted mine I did researched and read about how it’s a lot harder then a non kdss. When I got around to lifting it, it wasn’t as hard as what people said it was on the forums. Did not loosen the kdss shutter valves either, I feel like that’s where some end up with a lean after a month or two, From tampering with the system.

 

Wait, where is @Yotaholic?

 

Is that the main cause of the failure is dirt and debris building up behind that skid?

 

I did my lift without opening valves, also. No lean, here.

 

I can't imagine driving this brick without KDSS.

 

Anyone else feel that KDSS rides rough when lifted?
Our 18 OR and current GX not as smooth riding as our 16 SR5

 

same shocks before and after lift?

 

18 Bilstein 5100
22 GX Dobinsons standard
16 SR5 same 5100

 

Shock is in a different zone when it is lifted so dynamics change.